Author: Geoff Baxter
Date Published: 2008-12-01

Direct-to-garment Troubleshooting

Geoff Baxter, of M&R, looks at the most common causes of poor quality direct-to-garment digital prints and provides expert solutions to ensure top quality results every time…


Clogged nozzles: the left hand side of this 'split print' shows the image reproduced correctly; the right hand side shows the effect of clogged nozzles in the printer’s inkjet head.

Direct-to-garment printing is an evolving industry. The technology is advancing constantly, with further progress announced seemingly every week. While this rapid development of the digital printing process is exciting, it is accompanied by potential pitfalls and problems. The following troubleshooting guide identifies the most common of these problems and presents workable solutions for each. Hopefully, the information will help you to better understand direct-to-garment digital printing technology and how you can use it to its very best effect.
Bear in mind that these are generic recommendations: ultimately, you should consult the manufacturer(s) of your printer and consumable products for advice specific to your unit.

Poor washfastness

When properly processed and cured, the direct-to-garment inks that are currently on the market will hold up to laundering quite well. If you are experiencing problems, consider the following potential causes – all of which can impact the washfastness of digital prints.

Undercure
Most direct to garment digital inks need to be heated at between 163 - 176.5 °C (325 - 350 ° F) for around a minute to affect a proper cure. Dark shirts printed with white ink may take up to twice as long. Undercure is the single biggest cause of washout. Since the vast majority of these inks are water-based, then it is best to 'float' the transfer press, (presuming you are using a press to cure the ink), over the shirt for 30 - 45 seconds to boil off as much water as possible before applying pressure to affect the curing process.

Garment fabric
Many direct-to-garment digital inks are designed for cotton fabrics only. When used on 50&percent; cotton/50&percent; polyester or synthetic fabrics, image degradation may occur when the garment is laundered. Check with your supplier for their recommendations regarding print parameters for synthetics.

Pre-treatment
The level of pre-treatment on dark shirts will drastically affect print quality and washability. Too little treatment will cause the image to be pitted, and light: too much can negatively affect adhesion. While relatively easy to master, the pre-treatment process does re­quire some practice.

Fibrillation
I have found that what often ap­pears to be ink washing out is, in reality, caused by fibrillation – that is, the process whereby the fibres of the cotton garment protrude through the ink after washing. The degree of fibrillation is largely influenced by the technique used to spin the yarn that is used to knit the fabric. Print results will vary dramatically depending on the garment you use. You should test and evalu­ate shirts from several manufacturers to find the ones that work best for your application. Often times a second pass through the printer will increase the washability on white shirts, as the additional inks help to matt down the shirt fibres.

Pre-treatment on lights.
That may sound like an oxymoron, but I've seen printers apply pre-treatments to light garments. The treat­ments used for dark shirts are, in the main, for­mulated to react with the chemistry of the white ink: they do not react in the same fashion with the CMYK colours. Furthermore, pre-treatment applied to shirts that do not use a white under-print will quite possibly cause substantial image degradation when the garment is washed.

Dark shirt disasters

Printing white ink on dark garments using a digital printer is an absolutely achievable goal; however, there are far more variables and pit­falls than when printing on white shirts. I like to equate the differences to when my dad taught me to drive in a car with an automatic transmis­sion, and then sent me off for a drive in his thee-speed manual truck: there was lots of grinding noises until I figured it out! The following are the most common causes of less than desirable dark shirt prints…

Improperly applied pre-treatment

This is the most common malady when printing dark shirts. Essentially what happens is that the white ink must be of a low enough viscosity to be pushed through the incredibly fine inkjet nozzles. Because it is so thin, the white ink im­mediately soaks into the fabric. The pre-treat­ment is designed to chemically react with the white ink causing it to gel on contact – think of it as a 'chemical flash cure'. An uneven or insuffi.cient coating will always cause flaws in the white ink layer.

Inks settling
If your printer sits idle for any period of time, the white pigment in the ink has a tendency to settle, and separate from the ink's carrier. White ink cartridges and bulk feed containers should be agitated at least twice a day to keep the pigment evenly suspended in the carrier. Failure to agitate the white can also be the cause of printhead failure, as the thicker white pigment can be drawn through the system into the heads, resulting in clogged nozzles.

Clogged printhead nozzles
If you al­low the nozzles in your printheads to become clogged you are also likely to end up with prints that show an insufficient level of white ink. If the whites on your prints are less than you expected, run a nozzle check, and consult your supplier or owner's manual for directions to perform a head cleaning.

Contaminated capping stations
Many of the digital garment printers on the market are based upon Epson printers. These units allow the head to rest over what is called the capping station. If this station is not kept clean, cross contamination of the white nozzles can take place causing the first few prints after start-up to take on a blue, or grey cast. Running a scrap shirt, or running a cleaning cycle, will help to minimise this problem.

Colours don't match original

Colour balance and saturation can vary on both white, and dark shirts. The synergy between the inks that are used, the RIP employed, the gar­ment printed, and the printer itself is what determines colour quality. Any combination of the following can negatively impact colour quality…

Ink agitation
While not as pronounced as with the white ink, the pigment in the colours can settle, causing variances in colour balance. Coloured inks should also be lightly agitated twice a day to ensure even distribution of the pigments.

WYSINWYG (what you see is not what you get)
Keep in mind that you are working with CMYK colours. While this combination of pigments can produce a wide colour gamut, it is far from being capable of reproducing all of the hues in the spectrum. The RGB (additive colour) scheme of your monitor can reproduce a colour gamut that's approximately 30 percent wider than the colour gamut the CMYK (subtractive colour) inks are capable of reproducing. The bot­tom line is this: there really is no such thing as WYSIWYG (what you see is what you get)!

RIP profiles
The RIP software employed by your system must be properly profiled for the specific hue and density of the colorants used. Your supplier should have done this before de­livering your system. Changes in ink formulation can dramatically impact colour balance. If your supplier has changed their product, or you have made a decision to change ink manufacturers, the RIP will need to be re-profiled to accommo­date these changes. Bear in mind the three 'Ps' of accurate colour balance: Proper Profiling is Paramount.

Selectively clogged nozzles
If just some of the printhead's nozzles are clogged this will usually result in colours that are 'off'. This hap­pens because the RIP determines the correct amount of the primary colour needed to repro­duce a speci.c shade, but the printhead cannot deliver the correct amount to the 'nonfiring' nozzles, thus altering critical colour-to-colour balance. That is, the lack or complete absence of one or more ink colours will dramatically alter the colour of the final print. You should run a nozzle check, and perform the manufacturer's recommended cleaning procedure if any area appears clogged. (See Clogged printheads, below, for more detailed information on how to avoid clogging issues.)

Colour intensity diminishes when dried

There is nothing more frustrating than taking a great looking print off the printer just to have the colours 'die' when the print is cured. This problem can be caused by one of the following…

Heat and exposure
Excessive heat or exposure can cause the colours to fade during pressing. Use only the recommended time and temperature specifications provided by your supplier.

Pressure control
Applying too much pres­sure with the heat press can drive the ink into the shirt. Use only the minimum amount of pressure needed to make contact with the printed ink. As stated previously, it often helps to 'float' the transfer press over the shirt for 30 - 45 seconds to boil off as much water as possible and gel the surface before applying pressure.

Clogged printheads

Head clogging is an unfortunate, but inherent, characteristic of inkjet technology. It cannot be eliminated, but it can be greatly reduced by fol­lowing a few simple procedures…

A clean environment
The working environ­ment is incredibly important. The area should be as clean and dust/lint-free as possible. Inkjet printheads work best with a relative humidity level of between 50 – 75 &percent;. Humidity lev­els below those recommended by the manufac­turer can dramatically affect head clogging, and the useful life of the printheads. An accurate thermo-hygrometer is an essential purchase – don't be without one. If humidity falls below an acceptable level, place a cool water humidifier in the room.

Capping station cleanliness
On Epson-­based units, and other applicable printers, fol­low the recommendations for cleaning the cap­ping station and edges of the printhead. Dried ink in these areas can be scrubbed into the nozzles, causing anything from minor problems to catastrophic head failure.

Pre-treatment contamination
Avoid us­ing the pre-treatment solution anywhere near the printer. This chemistry is specifically de­signed to cause the white ink to gel. The ink has no way of knowing whether it is on the shirt, or in the print head. Even a minute amount of air­borne pre-treatment solution can negatively af­fect the head. To this end, it is also a good idea to leave the printer cover closed at all times to avoid exposure to pre-treatment chemicals and other potential contaminates. If the head comes into contact with any area of shirt that is treated you will most certainly experience nozzle block­ages. Avoid wrinkles, collars, and sleeve seams in the path of the printhead if at all possible.

Cleaning cycles
Regardless of the manu­facturer of the printer, it is good practice to run a cleaning cycle at the beginning of each work session.
Frequent use inkjet heads work better when they are used often. The more they are run the fewer problems you will usually have. Eight hours a day of operation is much better that one hour every eight days. If your printer is going to sit idle for any period of time the inks should be purged with cleaning solution. Some manufacturers now incorporate a timed self-cleaning mode into their system. If this is avail­able it is a good idea to have the machine clean itself at regular intervals when not in use.

If there is one secret to successful direct-to­garment printing, it is this:
you must religiously follow the manufacturer's preventative mainte­nance and cleaning schedules. Nothing else is more important!

Geoff Baxter is the director of M&:R’s Digital Products Division.
Previously, he served as vice president of sales for Martin/Atlantic Sign & Screen Supply, and president and co-founder of Atlantic Screen Supply. His 30-year industry career includes management positions with L0g0-7, Harlequin Nature Graphics, Advance Pro and Precision Screen Machines.
Geoff has written numerous articles for trade publications and spoken at many industry events.

Web: /www.mrprint.com


IMAGES is published by:
CN Publishing, 9a, Kings Road, Flitwick, Bedfordshire, MK45 1ED, England.
Tel: 01525 718890/717655
IMAGES website designed and hosted by Cyberscreen Internet Services

Other articles that may be of interest:
Dane ClementUsing Layer Styles for Digital Prints
Dane Clement explains how Photoshop's Layer Styles can help you to optimise your artwork for direct-to-garment digital prints, and provides a step-by-step workthrough to show how it's done..
Target TransfersYour Digital Printing Choices
Which digital printing system would best meet your commercial short-run requirements? Robin Bull,of Target Transfers, summarises the options, and explains why he believes print/cut to be the most rounded of all the digital print technologies currently ava
Dane ClementUnderbasing for digital prints
Dane Clement explains how to create a digital underbase for a direct-to-garment printer…
Bill HoodBuying an Automatic Textile Press - Pt.1
In the first of a two-part article, Bill Hood discusses the many and varied factors to consider when buying your first automatic press.
Bill HoodBuying an automatic textile press - Pt.2
n the second part of his article on moving up to an automatic textile press, Bill Hood singles out the critical features and functions to consider before parting with your cash.
Brian WalkerProfiting from Digital Printing
Brian Walker turns his attention to how garment decoration businesses can profit from adopting direct-to-garment digital printing technology.
Johnny ShellDirect-to-Garment inkjet devices - a technology update.
Direct-to-garment digital printing has come of age in 2007, and if the rumours are to be believed, it is set to make further technological leaps ahead over the next 12 months. Johnny Shell provides the timely advice and information

IMAGES Magazine reports on all  issues of the garment decoration industry

New bags and jackets from Regatta

IMAGES Magazine reports on all  issues of the garment decoration industry

Regatta’s schoolwear offering for 2010/11 goes from strength to strength with the launch of a new range of school bags. The new bags include the TRB035 Kids Gymsac, TRB036 Book Bag, TRB039 School Backpack 20l, TRB008 Highschool Rucksack 10l, TRB029 Scholar Backpack 20l, and TRB058 Sports Bag 30l. All feature ample areas for branding and will be available in a range of colours that co-ordinate with the Regatta schoolwear range. The brand’s school jackets include the TRW432 Fresher – a lightweight water-repellent and windproof fleece-lined jacket, in six school inspired colours.

The TRA652 Kids Uproar softshell is Regatta’s first kid’s softshell for the school uniform market, and provides a sporty, stylish alternative to conventional school outerwear. Made from resilient Regatta Softshell fabric with water-repellent finish, it features reflective trim and a printed name label. "This jacket is ready for the rough and tumble of the playground,” Regatta advises.

The TRW418 Kids Dover Jacket, with its snug fleece lining and Thermoguard insulation, is the children’s version of the popular adults’ waterproof Dover style. Made from Hydrafort fabric, the jacket’s waterproof protection is guaranteed, states Regatta.

A staple of the Regatta schoolwear range, the TRA900 Kids Term Time waterproof reversible jacket is made from peached polyester with a reversible fleece inner, making it a versatile choice for the winter term. It can be worn as either a warm lined waterproof jacket, or reversed and worn as a fleece with waterproof lining.

The Regatta TRF542 Kids Thor III Fleece is made from 250 series anti-pill Symmetry fleece. It has two lower pockets, an adjustable shockcord hem on sizes 7 years and upwards, and is available in five traditional school colours. The Kids Thor III is, "A hardwearing and smart addition to any school uniform,” according to Regatta. The brand also offers the KW943 Kids Breathable Packaway II Jacket and KW944 Overtrousers, and the W908 Kids Stormbreak Jacket and W808 Overtrousers. "These continue to be great sellers in the schoolwear market," says Regatta.

www.regattacorporatewear.com.

IMAGES Magazine reports on all  issues of the garment decoration industry

New bags and jackets from Regatta

IMAGES Magazine reports on all  issues of the garment decoration industry

Regatta’s schoolwear offering for 2010/11 goes from strength to strength with the launch of a new range of school bags. The new bags include the TRB035 Kids Gymsac, TRB036 Book Bag, TRB039 School Backpack 20l, TRB008 Highschool Rucksack 10l, TRB029 Scholar Backpack 20l, and TRB058 Sports Bag 30l. All feature ample areas for branding and will be available in a range of colours that co-ordinate with the Regatta schoolwear range. The brand’s school jackets include the TRW432 Fresher – a lightweight water-repellent and windproof fleece-lined jacket, in six school inspired colours.

The TRA652 Kids Uproar softshell is Regatta’s first kid’s softshell for the school uniform market, and provides a sporty, stylish alternative to conventional school outerwear. Made from resilient Regatta Softshell fabric with water-repellent finish, it features reflective trim and a printed name label. "This jacket is ready for the rough and tumble of the playground,” Regatta advises.

The TRW418 Kids Dover Jacket, with its snug fleece lining and Thermoguard insulation, is the children’s version of the popular adults’ waterproof Dover style. Made from Hydrafort fabric, the jacket’s waterproof protection is guaranteed, states Regatta.

A staple of the Regatta schoolwear range, the TRA900 Kids Term Time waterproof reversible jacket is made from peached polyester with a reversible fleece inner, making it a versatile choice for the winter term. It can be worn as either a warm lined waterproof jacket, or reversed and worn as a fleece with waterproof lining.

The Regatta TRF542 Kids Thor III Fleece is made from 250 series anti-pill Symmetry fleece. It has two lower pockets, an adjustable shockcord hem on sizes 7 years and upwards, and is available in five traditional school colours. The Kids Thor III is, "A hardwearing and smart addition to any school uniform,” according to Regatta. The brand also offers the KW943 Kids Breathable Packaway II Jacket and KW944 Overtrousers, and the W908 Kids Stormbreak Jacket and W808 Overtrousers. "These continue to be great sellers in the schoolwear market," says Regatta.

www.regattacorporatewear.com.